Credo che un buon compromesso sia tracciare le lineee 20mm dal bordo
della spada (lasciando uno spazio di 10mm fra le due linee).
[Questa misura presuppone una spada spessa 24mm. Se la spada e' di
spessore diverso dovrai correggere le distanze di conseguenza. Una formula
generale e' questa: (Fig. 13).]
1.67 X Distanza dal centro al bordo dello spessore della spada (A) = Distanza dal bordo della spada (B).
Your first edge is likely to be a bit jagged. Do not be discouraged by this, cutting edges is a matter of practice as much as careful marking out. You can use fine sandpaper to try and smooth out any imperfections afterwards. You should now have the finished blade (Fig. 14).
You need an electric drill (any drill with a large enough chuck will do) and a cylindrical sanding attachment (the sort that has a sponge cylinder around whose edge you put a sandpaper belt as opposed to the circular type), a large G-clamp and a table or workbench outside or in a workshop (this gets exceedingly messy, so work in a place and in clothes you don't mind getting covered in foam dust, wearing a mask and goggles if you want to protect your eyes and lungs against said dust which gets EVERYWHERE).
Attach the drill to the edge of the table with the G-clamp so the sanding cylinder sticks over the edge and the trigger and lock button are accessible. Turn on the drill and shape the blade by holding the sword horizontally with the blade at whatever angle you want to cut it to, perpendicular to the axis of the drill and moving the blade in long, even strokes in the OPPOSITE direction to the direction of the sandpaper's motion, each stroke taking the entire length of the blade (minus the very tip). Shape each edge of each blade slowly and carefully, the sander rips through foam at a huge rate of knots and pressing too hard can be disastrous - but the strokes must be smooth and confident, as hesitating mid-stroke can also be a bad thing. When the blades are done, carefully shape the tip by lightly pressing onto the sander, always pointing the tip along the direction of motion of the sander to avoid the tip being dragged back and blunted.
This method does take a bit of practice, but, once you've got the hang of it, is MUCH quicker and easier than carving the blades, though the inside edge of the blade isn't as sharply defined. It also goes without saying that all the precautions of working with power tools should be followed - tie long hair back, don't wear loose clothes, and, most of all, since your fingers will be coming into close proximity with the sander, mind your fingers!
Return to Sword Making Guide Index.